 “We smash it all together,” says Tod Waters, co-founder of Junker Designs, when asked to describe the signature Junker look. He and partner Guiliana Mayo use this formula to create clothing with rock ‘n’ roll edge, favored by musicians like Steven Tyler of Aerosmith, Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera, and Mötley Crüe.
Waters and Mayo met at a fashion show and decided to collaborate because they didn’t want to work for others. As a musician himself, Waters was on tour often, and the earliest Junker styles sprang from necessity, “I was always repairing my pants, patching them up with whatever I could find.” For her part, Mayo wanted to design clothes similar to her favorite vintage frocks, inspired by “the corsets of Dolce and Gabbana and the dirtiness of Courtney Love.”
While on the road, Waters also took note of the fashions worn by fellow rockers, paying special attention to the artwork and treatments. Indeed, unique treatments such as over dyeing and rusting are Junker hallmarks, done by hand because they want “each piece to be special.” “We don’t employ robots,” Waters adds. As the company grows, the challenge, Mayo notes, is “how to make a mass-produced garment and still make it ours.”
Mayo draws from her theater and fine arts background when she works on a collection, noting, “Theatrical clothing appeals to performers, our clients. Our fashion shows are crazy, over the top, to show the clothes as they are meant to be worn.” Yet even though the runway presentations—and clothes themselves—are flashy, they are comfortable and surprisingly wearable. “The key is knowing when to stop,” says Waters.
Although denim and leather are staples in the line, lightweight fabrics and flattering cuts are also combined to craft pants that are “good for movement.” Vests are a top- selling item because, as Waters notes, “A vest is more of an accessory. You can throw it on to complete a look.”
In business for a year and a half, the duo has built a client base through what Mayo describes as “word of mouth that can only happen in a city like L.A.” She explains that the availability of resources in the city is also a key to their success. “In L.A., every type of leather is available, all within walking distance. All of our clients play in L.A., and we have access to the newest bands.”
They also have access to the FBI, and plan to utilize the programs offered to help them effectively manage day-to-day operations. Waters and Mayo say they would love to design for films in the near future, yet for now they are content to revel in the creative process and “let accidents happen.”
By Anna Zappia First Published 4/4/07 |
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