A big thanks to everyone who attended FBI’s Meet the Resource Members event on July 28,2010.  If you’ve ever read this blog before, then you know I’m a HUGE fan of networking.  Really! And FBI networking events are a great opportunity for those in the fashion industry, or those who want to get into the fashion industry, to make connections and meet a lot of talented, knowledgeable people. 

Due to traffic, I didn’t arrive until after 6:00 p.m. so I missed a number of people I would have enjoyed meeting.  However, since this was a Meet the Resource Members event, it was the perfect chance to meet new resources and find out about their products and services.  Each resource had a table with their marketing materials and a display of their products or services.  This gave our attendees the chance to meet with each resource one on one, or just mingle with other members and catch up on industry news. 

Frances, Erin and Egle were hard at work making the evening a great success.  I, selfishly, had a chance to catch up with Resource Members Staci Riordan of Fox Rothschild, LLc - author of one of my favorite blogs, ”Fashion Law” as well as new resource members Nouvolution and Visual 2000 - both are ERP software for the apparel industry and both are great additions to FBI’s Resources. 

I also had a chance to catch up with the hardest working woman in the apparel industry - and that’s saying a lot, because I’d like to think of myself as pretty hard working, but I have no idea when Arlene Battishill ever sleeps.  Don’t believe me?  Check out her Twitter feed for LA Scooter Girls.  Her Go Go Gear and Scooter Girls products have gone from 0 - 60 in the blink of an eye, and it just keeps growing.  When she asked me if I had a few hours to come over and help pick orders, I don’t think she was joking.  OK, Arlene, let me know what day to come by and I’ll pick, pack and ship for you.  Seriously. 

Another one of our members, Korena Ellis, needs to be the next 0 - 60 success story from FBI.  She has a unique idea, with great designs and an inspirational story.  Her curent line consists of jewelry, made from lost wax casting, which gives each one of her pieces a hand made look and feel and sets it apart from many other brands.  Her designs are empowerment pieces and are meant to create personal inspiration in the wearer while also creating a fashion statement.   The designs are unique and will translate very well from jewelry to apparel - screen printed tees are a natural next step, but the symbols work well as prints, on hats, as logos and more. 

What Korena needs now is a business partner, someone who can help take her ideas and products to the next level.  In any situation like this, it requires an investment of time, energy, effort and probably some money.  If you, or someone you know, is looking for the opportunity to get involved with a growing brand and has the business acumen to merchandise and market a brand like this, get in touch with me or contact Korena directly. 

I actually connected Korena with Arlene in the hopes that Arlene had a few words of wisdom to get Korena to the next level.  Then again, I know what Arlene went through to get to the next level and I don’t know if taking that same path will lead to the success of Scooter Girls.  So network, if you’re out there and listening, do you have any ideas for Korena?  I know we’d all be interested.

Don’t forget…come by the Sourcing at MAGIC seminars August 16 - 19. FBI will be presenting 4 seminars and you’ll want to attend them all! 

Jill Mazur is an apparel industry consultant with Fashion Business, Inc.  email:  jill@fashionbizinc.org

Recently, FBI sent out a survey to our members and non-members alike.  We wanted your feedback on how FBI serves the fashion industry and what we can do to improve our offerings to you and the fashion community in general. You were not shy in your responses and we thank you for your input.  We’re always looking for ways to improve our services and, with this feedback, we have our jobs cut out for ourselves.

127 members and non-members responded to our membership survey.  Some of the respondents in the “Other” category included students, freelance pattern makers and people looking to get started in the fashion industry.  We received responses from Los Angeles, the Bay Area, New York, Arizona, Kentucky, Nevada, Missouri, Ohio, Utah, Wyoming, South Carolina, Maryland, Florida, Washington, Michigan, Oregon and a few from Jolly old England.

 Following  are the survey responses to each question asked along with selected comments.

 “What are the biggest challenges currently facing your business?” 

Comments included:  “assisting students to secure employment,” “shortage of jobs and internships,” “understanding production and how to source locally,” “product development,” “the economy,” “sourcing fabrics” and “getting funding.”

“Which FBI services do you currently take advantage of?” 

Several respondents “would like to see classes offered in the Bay Area.”  Other comments included:  “would like more on-line training,” “would like to take the walking tour,” “would like more social events,” “want to find out more about the consultants,” “would like to participate in the fashion show.” 

We need to take advantage of putting more seminars and classes either on-line as a download or as a Webinar, if at all possible.  With so many people outside of the LA/SF area participating in this survey, the only opportunity most people have to come in to the FBI office is during market, and they’re usually too busy to attend classes or seminars. 

“Which Seminars do you most frequently take?” 

Many of the respondents have yet to take a class or a seminar, whether it’s due to location or the fact that some of them aren’t members,  approximately 30 percent  said they haven’t taken a seminar. 

 “What other types of services, seminars, classes, Fashion events, or networking opportunities would you like FBI to present?” 

Responses include:  “trend and color seminars,” “home furnishing/fashions,” “planning for business growth,” “PLEASE OFFER CLASSES IN SF, especially Photoshop and Illustrator,” “sales and marketing - for established businesses, not just startups,” “classes in NY,” “create online FBI community so members can get to know one another, even if it’s just virtual,” “sourcing and manufacturing in the US,” “developing products for plus-size/mature markets,” “sourcing, sourcing, sourcing,” “operations,” “finding sales reps,” “how to work with retail buyers, how to meet retail buyers,” “finance,” “understanding computer systems,” “online marketing,” “ecommerce - how to set up an online store,” “utilizing social media,” “mixers with famous designers and sales reps.”

“Please let us know how frequently you would like to receive our emails” 

It appears as though we’re on target with the number of emails we send.  Certain things like sign-ups for fashion shows should be sent out well in advance so people can have enough time to prepare.

 “In what ways has the Fashion Business, Inc. helped your career and/or business?” 

Comments included: “the book “Fashion for Profit” was the best investment I’ve made in my business,” and various other comments about how beneficial the book has been,  “I took the AIMS certification course,” “It’s great to know there’s an organization out there helping people like me get into the business,” “…has exposed me to areas in the business that school never did. I have a merchandising & design degree from Cal. State Northridge and I was never taught the things I have learned through FBI.”

“How would you rate your overall membership experience with us?” 

Comments from our members included:  “Computers in lab weren’t working properly when I took a class there,” “not a lot of programs or classes available in SF,” “every time I call with a question or send an email everyone is so helpful and friendly,” “thank you for your services and advice to the small business owner,” “would like more classes during weekends or evenings or webinars or on-line - I can’t attend during the work day,” “would like to see more networking events and seminars.”

Interestingly, we received the most comments from non-members.  Many people are on our email lists through workshops, events, etc.  They felt compelled to participate in the survey if only to voice that they’d like to see more workshops and classes in their local areas.  Other comments included the fact that our memberships were “too expensive” as were our seminars.  Again, these were coming from non-members.

If you have any comments, ideas, etc. please feel free to email us at info@fashionbizinc.org or stop by and see us at the California Market Center in Los Angeles, suite C786.

Jill Mazur is an independent apparel business and technology consultant working with Fashion Business, Incorporated.  Email:  jill@fashionbizinc.org

Well, of course it does!  Especially if you were at the Neiman Marcus “Fashion Rules” event last week in Beverly Hills.  I’ll admit I’m not really a Neiman Marcus shopper.  My budget may allow for an occasion splurge at one of their very fine restaurants or bars, but that’s about it for me.  However, I have a great appreciation for the store, the merchandise and the value of the brand “Neiman Marcus.”  I was grateful to have the opportunity to attend the event and thoroughly enjoyed it.  The store was packed with NM’s loyal customers and a few curious onlookers (me included).  Events were staged throughout the store as well as food and beverage stations.  A makeshift runway was setup on the second level with models wearing the newest looks and accessories for summer.  There was a terrific display of NM’s photographer, Matthew Rolston’s, latest images and signed copies of his newly released coffee table book. 

My favorite part of the evening was Ken Downing’s presentation via video-conference, straight from the Paris runways.  The poor man was up at 4:30 a.m. in Europe to broadcast live to Beverly Hills with the latest, greatest trends for Fall, 2011.  No, I’m not going to reveal them here.  You’ll just have to wait and see, or better yet, subscribe to one of the Trend services available.

While walking around the store, I kept thinking about how well the Beverly Hills Neiman Marcus store is arranged and merchandised.  Aside from the fact that the merchandise is beautiful and of such great quality, there really is an art to creating a directional flow in a store and how the products are displayed.  The display cases, racks and shelves are never over crowded with product, allowing your eyes to take in the details of each item.  Nothing is crammed in or fighting for space. Yes, I realize they have multiple thousands of square feet to work with, but so do other department stores whose racks always seem to explode with product.  Boutiques are a different animal altogether, but the best ones follow the same principles.  Ever stopped by the Prada store in Beverly Hills?  The sleek, Rem Koolhaas designed store is an excellent statement in minimalism.  Each piece is given enough space to “speak for itself” and shines brightly among other jewels on Rodeo Drive. 

Don’t forget, FBI is doing a number of seminars next week at the Los Angeles International Textile show March 15 - 17 in the California Market Center.  Stop by our office at suite C786 for three days full of informative sessions as well as a mixer on Monday evening starting at 5:00 p.m.  Meet some of our great members, employees and contributors (including yours truly) and get to know us, if you don’t already. 

Jill Mazur is an independent apparel business and technology consultant working with Fashion Business, Incorporated.  Email:  jill@fashionbizinc.org

Speed to Market – Fast Turn – Rapid Response

What do these terms mean to the apparel industry in 2009? Good news and bad news!

New times = New methods of doing business = Rapid response to the demands of the retailer and consumer.

But, can the average apparel manufacturer respond rapidly? Well, for the small company who, due to their smaller orders are for the most part producing domestically it is good news. They can turn on a dime and produce faster than the larger companies who need a much longer lead time to produce their goods, usually in far off places. Smaller companies with small orders ship them to the retailer, then if the orders sell through they get reorders. This is the very best of new business news for new and smaller manufacturers. It is also good news for the retailer as they can plan for the demands of their customers, the weather, and the economy etc. This new type of selling and buying results in the manufacturer having a much better cash flow, as they will not be seeking funding for larger orders when selling through the traditional five seasons each year.

This tradition of selling at the four or five markets each year usually requires groups within each line that demands cash outlay for the expenses for patternmaking and sampling. Now, the manufacturer is constantly designing, which they really always have and then showing new products, and shipping weekly or monthly new merchandise. So now the manufacturer can get paid more often. They do not need to invest heavily in the five big lines a year as they are now producing and shipping new items to replenish sell through products. The retailer will also have less of a cash flow problem with this type of merchandise planning. The customer will see new items when ever they shop. A win win in a new economy! Well, we hope so.

So, it has at last been officially noted by many international economist that the small business owners are really the backbone of our economy, not only in the US but globally. The big branded companies are not fairing well and many have had to cut back or worse, close their doors. Small businesses can adjust and respond as they don’t have large overheads. For the most part they contract out all their work, including sewing, cutting, bookkeeping etc. and cut back on other expenses to respond to demands, or lack of demands of the economy.

Some for the negative results of this new economy is that bigger retailers are demanding, from branded manufacturers that they discount or allow markdown money. Additionally, major discount store, e.g. Marshals, TJ Maxx, Ross are producing more private label. This has resulted in much cheaper prices for the average clothing labels that are now being sold. The price of clothing today is the lowest we have seen in years. Due to the recession sewing factories around the world have all been forced to lay off workers. The ports in China and other locations are full of containers with cancelled orders. These goods may get discounted and sold or they will have to be destroyed.

However, much merchandise is still being produced domestically, especially in southern California where they produce premium denim, active sportswear and contemporary clothing. But sadly both the off shore and the domestic sewing contractors reluctantly have been forced to take cuts in their pricing so that they can keep their workers working. This rational is in the hopes that the economy will turn around and then the demand for new clothing will pick up. The alternative is to lay workers off and then when the economy turns around they will then need to reinvest time and money in finding good workers and training them.

Another change in business methods are that some of the higher end retailers are asking the smaller manufactures to sell on consignment and this is not a good idea. It was bad enough that traditionally the manufacturer has taken all the risks with development and production costs then have to wait to get paid. Now they are expected to take ALL the risk and maybe then get paid!

Talk about getting screwed!  - Consignment selling will be one of my next blog topics.

But, now onto a very different topic. It is the season to be merry! And I need to take a deep breath and keep my mouth shut when I see all those ugly heavy knitted sweaters decorated with Christmas trees adorned with lights and holly. Or, equally as offensive fashion trend, those cheaply mass produced red jackets lovely dragged out annually of the closets. Where, in my very opinionated opinion they should really remain for posterity. J

HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO YOU AND YOUR LOVED ONES. I HAVE MUCH TO BE GRATEFUL FOR IN MY LIFE AND ALTHOUGH CLOTHING IS MY BUSINESS IT IS NOT MY LIFE.

Part one

I have just returned from an interesting and thought provoking 8 day trip to Germany. I was invited by the German Federal Foreign office to be part of a foreign delegation. The visit included four cities which highlighted sustainability, green technology and to see firsthand what the Germans have in place to support their creative industry.

Why were we invited on this fascinating trip? To begin with this was a question on all our minds, but it soon became clear that this experience was a PR trip to educate the world about Germany’s support of creativity and entrepreneurial endeavors. They also wanted to highlight the importance of small creative entrepreneurial businesses to the world economy and the importance of supporting small business.

First stop Munich, my favorite city in Germany. A place I know very well from living there for four years in the 70’s and then later for two years with my family in the 80’s. We stayed in a wonderful boutique hotel downtown near the center. The first evening after my near 24 hours trip from LA via Zurich I was introduced to the other members of the delegation who had also arrived that day from various other parts of the world.

Including me there was a total of nine people in the delegation; a shy professor of fashion from Beijing, an extravert and renowned reporter from Shanghai, a glamorous new age Marilyn Monroe fashion reporter accompanied by a delightful professor of knitting from Oslo Norway, the exuberant talented and bight business journalist from Luxemburg, a talented designer from Tehran who will be showing her fashions at the Victoria and Albert museum in London in November 09. A rugged science journalist from New Zealand and last, but by no ways least, a delightful Harvard masters graduate and professor of fashion from Boston.

Our Munich itinerary included visits to a new young “How to make your own thing” magazine. A visit to a boutique with a social conscience, which featured interesting organic cottage industry clothing, and accessories. Followed by a SBahn train ride to a small but very interesting trade show that featured sustainable furniture. But, the highlight in Munich was the visit to the new very impressive modern art gallery which was a treat for us all. Packed full of valuable art work that would have cost millions to purchase. The building is a master example in the use of space and light.

Next we flew to Dusseldorf to visit Germany’s center of fashion and architectural fame. A city that combines green technology with old and not so old historic buildings. From there we drove to Essen the past heart of the industrial center of Germany. We visited a rebuilt and preserved brewery and an old coal mine, which our guides likened to the “pyramids” in engineering and architecture. The Germans have reworked these places with precision, a quality for style and workmanship for which they are famous.

Our final destination was Berlin to experience firsthand their relatively recent rebirth of a city from the ashes of the east and from the division of a country to the newly reunited Berlin. This year marks 20 years since the wall came down. Berlin is a tribute to their master planning with its incredible architectural buildings that highlight Germany’s ability to heal and rebuild a city.

In Berlin we had many meetings and lectures at different locations, maybe too many as we were all rather exhausted at this point. One meeting that we all agreed was refreshingly honest and insightful was presented by Sven Harpering, Senior Managing Media, ICT & Creative Industries. Sven discussed the contributions made to the economy of the creative industries. Small new companies that pop up in all sectors of creativity, from fashion, music, film, art, software design, performing arts and many more. These small companies contribute massively to the economy. Hundreds of thousands of small companies with maybe one or two employees, which are struggling to make their company bigger or more profitable.

Most of us are aware that many types of jobs have been lost to off shore cheaper labor. As a result we are now looking at our struggling economy and what has resulted from the massive lack of planning and rebuilding of any new infrastructure. If we do not begin to support our own western creativity to create new businesses and help existing businesses then the east will soon take over as the leaders in entrepreneurial endeavors.

What they are doing in Germany is something we at the Fashion Business Incorporated www.fashionbizinc.org in LA have for the past ten years been trying to achieve. That is, to support creative entrepreneurs realize success and profits, while at the same time creating new jobs. We must rapidly realize that it is extremely important to rebuild our countries infrastructure by developing new manufacturing methods that will serve the needs of today’s textile and fashion industry.

The apparel industry is the largest industry in the US if you consider the retailing segment. Bigger than the auto industry! When has our industry received support from any bailouts? But if the industry is not supported soon our creative entrepreneurs and the money they generate for our western economies, and whose trendy fashion goods that are sought after globally will disappear. We can then all expect to be looking to China’s new designer/entrepreneurs to fill our shoes as well as produce the product!

However, back to our trip which was truly memorable. The new friends I made were all so different in many ways with very diverse experiences and life styles, and yet we all really bonded. It could have been the good wine that helped fuel this realization. I feel confident that we will all stay connected to find more solutions to support global creativity.

Global Creativity Network - to be continued.

As a relative newcomer to the world of blogging, I didn’t realize how much fun, or how difficult blogging can be. It’s fun, because I can write just about anything I want – which is also what makes it so difficult - narrowing down my ideas into one somewhat coherent stream of thought. Which is why I’m getting back to the business of fashion. Because that’s what we do here at Fashion Business, Incorporated.

And speaking of here, did you know we now have an FBI location in San Francisco? That’s right – We now have a chapter serving the San Francisco Bay Area, offering classes in multiple locations including through our partnership with the Small Business Administration. Janet Lees is directing all FBI programs in the Bay Area as well as fund raising for the SF FBI office. A native of UK, Janet has been involved with the Bay Area fashion and design industries for 16 years and is especially proud of the programs she’s developed to support entrepreneurs in fashion and the arts. In addition, she is an experienced small business owner and an active partner in her husband’s modern furniture company, Jason Lees Design, located in Oakland, where she is responsible for Public Relations and has secured ink in local, national and international press. We are so fortunate to have Janet on board and are very excited to be able to present many new and popular seminars to our Bay Area members. Check out our list of upcoming events in Northern and Southern California, Atlanta and Phoenix – open to members and non-members alike.

When most people think of fashion they think of runways filled with glamorous models, fashion magazines full of glossy advertisements, celebrities at movie premiers or awards show or maybe even “Project Runway.” At FBI we know that the finished product, what the consumer sees, is the end result of many months of design, planning, manufacturing, logistics and more. There are so many pieces to the puzzle of successful fashion businesses that it’s no wonder so many companies can’t make it in today’s economic climate. No, not just because people aren’t buying clothing, accessories or shoes. They are, just take a look at the latest retail numbers to see sales have improved greatly. It’s because business is changing. Wholesale, retail, ecommerce – it’s all changing. As a fashion business, you need to have the skills to stay on top of new retail buying and selling trends, new credit and financing issues that are affecting us all, new business and technology skills and even new ways of doing business with your vendors. That’s where the FBI comes in. Why not take full advantage of your FBI membership? Or, if you’re not currently a member, become one. Memberships start at $200 per year, but the knowledge you gain is priceless. We’re here to service the fashion communities in California as well as seminars in Atlanta, Phoenix and New York. Can’t be here in person? We have a number of classes and seminars online at very affordable prices. Contact Jacquelyn@fashionbizinc.org for more information or just stop by our offices or website. We look forward to seeing you.

Jill Mazur is an independent apparel business and technology consultant working with Fashion Business, Incorporated. Email: jill@fashionbizinc.org

Well, actually, October was National Cyber Security Awareness Month, so it’s a little late to post this, but it’s never too late to be aware of your cyber and network security. National Cyber Security Awareness Month (NCSAM), sponsored by the Department of Homeland Security, has been conducted every October since 2001, and is a national public awareness campaign to encourage everyone to protect their computers and our nation’s critical cyber infrastructure.

What does this have to do with YOU? Everything. If you’re reading this blog you must be using a computer or some type of tool that allows you to access the internet. If you can access the internet, it’s possible that someone or something can access your data or network. Identity theft is on the rise. Malicious viruses and network hackers always seem to be looming close by. What can you do to protect yourself and your business?

1: Be smart about your computer, your network and especially your passwords. Computers and networks should be running up to date security software which scans for viruses, spyware and more on a daily basis. If you work in an open or public location, log off of your computer when you step away from your desk. Yes, it’s irritating to have to log back in, but better safe than sorry. Don’t share your passwords, ever. And don’t use the same password for all of your email, online accounts, banking and more. See below for some hints on how to create strong passwords. What should you do if you find your computer is the recipient of a virus? See #3 on the list.

2: Any information, data, files, pictures, etc. that has any importance to you or your business should ALWAYS be backed up to a separate, secure location. And I don’t just mean a little USB drive which can easily be lost. It’s worth the investment for yourself or your business to have secure, offsite storage of your files with a reputable company. You can usually backup your files on a daily, weekly and monthly basis to your server or to an online, internet data storage which should be accessible to you any place you can get an internet connection. If you’re like me and everything you have is on your laptop, what do you do if the darn thing crashes or gets stolen? It would take me a while to get a new laptop, but only a few minutes to get to all of my files. Backing up to a separate hard drive is also a good idea, but if you keep your hard drive in the same place where you keep your computer, it’s not a very good disaster recovery plan. Oh, and always, always, ALWAYS check your back up to make sure your data is actually there!

3: Know when to ask for help. Professional help, that is. Sole proprietors and small business owners are notorious for knowing “someone” who can help them with their computer or network. That “someone” usually turns out to be the next door neighbor’s 15 year old kid who’s a computer genius. Yes, he may be a genius but does he know what to do when your network is infected with a virus or your server is out of commission? Probably not. So what should you do? Well, I recommend establishing a relationship with an IT service provider who will help manage your network, servers, computers and more. Fees for these types of services can be very affordable depending on the service and support you need. Knowing that someone is keeping your network running smoothly, monitoring your system backups and keeping your security software up-to-date provides piece of mind to many businesses. Heck, you can even outsource your IT help desk to some of these service providers. In this case, what you don’t know about computer and network security can really hurt you or your business.

Some top tips from www.staysafeonline.org:

• Keep your web browsers and operating systems up-to-date. Internet Service Providers (ISPs) and software companies regularly update their browsers and operating systems not to annoy you (yes, I know it feels like this), but to fix security issues and bugs which may allow unintentional access to your systems. By keeping up-to-date on the latest releases you help close these security gaps.
• Back up important files – see #2 above. I would recommend you back up all files, because you never know what’s important until you can’t find it.
• Use caution with email attachments – many email programs have an automatic virus scan for all email attachments, make sure you use it. If something looks or seems suspicious, DON’T OPEN THE ATTACHMENT! Call or email the person who sent it to you and ask them to tell you what was in the attachment. If they don’t know or say they never sent you an attachment, it’s probably a virus and should not be opened anyway.
• Create strong passwords:
  • Don’t use passwords that are based on personal information that can be easily accessed or guessed.
  • Don’t use words that can be found in any dictionary of any language.
  • Use both lowercase and capital letters and/or a combination of letters, numbers, and special characters.
  • Use different passwords on different systems.
• Use security software tools as your first line of offense – there is no reason not to have up-to-date security software running on your computer and network. It may cost a monthly or yearly fee, but I can guarantee that fee is a lot less than the cost of having a professional come out and try to recover lost data from an infected system.

Jill Mazur is an independent apparel business and technology consultant working with Fashion Business, Incorporated. Email: jill@fashionbizinc.org

Cable channel HBO premiered their documentary entitled “Schmatta: Rags to Riches to Rags” on October 19, 2009. If you missed it the first time, I’m sure it will be replayed soon and is most likely available through some cable providers “On Demand” services. Whatever you do, don’t miss this program! It’s an 80 minute history lesson that everyone in the garment industry needs to watch.

First of all “Schmatta,” or the more literal transliteration “Shma-teh,” is a Yiddish term for a “Rag, or anything useless” and is usually used to describe a worn-out piece of clothing, but it’s generally used to describe any piece of clothing – high fashion to yesterday’s rags. It’s also a great way to introduce us to the history of the garment industry in New York. The documentary takes us from the late 1880’s to present day in New York’s garment center – seven square blocks of some of the most important history in our industry. Immigrants fresh off the boats from Europe trying to make a living cutting, sewing or designing clothes through the Triangle Shirtwaist factory tragedy in 1911 through unionization to modernization of equipment, a thriving and profitable industry and all the way to the outsourcing of most manufacturing related jobs.

Some parts made me laugh – I recognized many similar personalities in the people I’ve worked with in LA’s garment industry. Some parts made me cry – so many talented people out of work, with no prospects, as more and more jobs disappear from NYC. I’m quoting this directly from the Tenement.org website: “In 1950, the garment industry made up almost 1/3 of all manufacturing employment and 1/10 of total employment in NYC. Today, as a result of the shift from a production and distribution-based economy to a service-based economy, the garment industry is 8% of all manufacturing and 2% of total city employment. This is a drop of almost 75%.”

One of the most worrisome statistics from this documentary is the fact that in 1965, 95% of all clothing worn in the USA was MADE in the USA. Today, it’s less than 5%. How do we bring those jobs back to the US? How do we create living wage jobs in New York or right here in Los Angeles for contractors, cutters, sewers, textile manufacturers, trim suppliers and more. Working conditions around the world are a reflection of the consumer’s desire for quality merchandise at the lowest prices, regardless of the cost. Watch this documentary and note the similarities between NYC in the late 1880’s and present day manufacturing plants. The documentary shows examples of abusive foreign manufacturing plants, underage workers and a scene eerily reminiscent of the Triangle Shirtwaist factory fire in modern day India.

The entire documentary is not an expose on horrible labor conditions around the world. There is plenty of interesting historical and political information as well as a number of colorful “garmento” characters from past and present. There are plenty of recognizable faces and a number of familiar personalities. Interestingly, if you go to HBO’s website or even search directly on Facebook, there’s a page where you can post your stories about your personal experiences working in NYC’s garment center. How many of us out there had relatives working in NYC’s garment center 100 years ago? What will be left of it 100 years from now?

Some may place the blame on all of these outsourced jobs on unions, minimum wage, compliance or labor laws, but that’s not the real issue here. After watching the documentary, you’ll know – you already do – what the issues are and what we need to do about it.

If you were in the Los Angeles area this week, I hope you had the opportunity to come by the Globaltex trade show at the LA Convention center. There were a lot of great vendors, new products, new and familiar faces and interesting seminars. Since GlobalTex is a new trade show, they’re still fine-tuning it and responding to exhibitor and attendee feedback. I’m hoping the next show will fill the entire room and then some. If you’re looking for industry trends, companies such as MPDClick were there as well as a trend area showing some of the latest fabrics, colors and prints.

So here’s what I learned:

1: Trade shows are still the best way to see and feel new products, colors and designs. I’m a big fan of technology, don’t get me wrong, but nothing beats holding something in your hand to really understand the product.

2: Hemp jersey is my new favorite fabric. Seriously. I was thinking “Hemp Jersey?” How soft can that be? Well, it’s as lovely as Modal – soft and drapey, without the clinginess of Modal. One of my clients is already using it in some of their designs and I can’t wait to see it when it comes to market.

3: Heavy rains made for a light turnout the first day of the show. It also made for nightmarish traffic, but that’s to be expected in Los Angeles.

4: Frances Harder of FBI, Victor Dahan of Shipson, Ken Wengrod of FTC and I had a great time on the “Speed to Market” panel. We approached the subject from our own view points. Frances moderated and injected her wisdom about bringing production back to the LA area and how California designs are sought after around the world.

5: Ken talked about financing and the current credit situation. Everyone wants to know what will happen if/when CIT files for bankruptcy. Ken explained the most likely scenarios and let everyone know that business would still continue. I swear I heard a collective sigh of relief.

6: Victor discussed how to improve the supply chain and how markets in China and Russia are opening up to American goods.

7: We all talked about how selling to the international markets should not be a barrier in business any more. Financial transactions, credit, customs, commercial invoices and more are easy to address and can expand a company’s revenue stream dramatically.

8: I talked about the role of technology in speed to market and how using tools can give you a 360 degree view into the design, sampling, production, inventory and financial aspects of your business and how no company should ever be without them. No matter what your budget is, there are tools to help your business.

9: Retailers are conducting business differently and manufacturers need to be able to react quickly to change. Keep inventory low. Don’t expect the re-order. Speed to market is an entire process from design to delivery, know how to react.

10: Don’t wear boots with three inch heels when walking a trade show.

Jill Mazur is an independent apparel business and technology consultant working with Fashion Business, Incorporated. Email: jill@fashionbizinc.org

I’m excited about the Globaltex tradeshow next week. Last week’s double whammy of Material World and the LA International Textile show have left me feeling mildly optimistic about the state of our industry. I saw several familiar faces and lots of great products. There was a lot of traffic through both shows as well as seminars, color forecasting workshops and a great session put on by Cotton, Inc.

Speaking of seminars, many of the FBI seminars we held in conjunction with Material World and the LA Textile show were full. In addition to the seminars, we had a lot of people stopping by to say “hello.” Speaking of which, Frances Harder, Ken Wengrod from FTC Commercial Corp and yours truly will be on one of the Globaltex discussion panels regarding Speed to Market, so please stop on by to say hello. I hear we’re even having cocktails!

I heard someone say “Why go to Globaltex if I’ve just been to the Textile Show?” Simple. You never know what you might find at Globaltex. It’s a relatively new show and there are a lot of great new vendors testing the tradeshow waters. They may be looking for a different venue to display their products or are looking for a different type of customer. Plus, it’s not just for textiles, trims, etc. I, of course, am excited about the technology vendors. But that’s just me. Who wouldn’t be when there are supply chain, CAD, PLM, ERP, RFID, product development, logistics and warehouse management systems to review! Fine, go ahead and look at all the pretty fabrics…I’ll be very happy looking at the shiny software.

Getting back to our panel discussion next Tuesday, 3:30 p.m. at Globaltex: The panel will discuss how the textile and clothing industry are reacting to the new demands from the retailer for rapid response, what are the new buying habits of retailers and end consumers and how they are changing the way they do business, as well as how this effects California fashion and the global market as far as importing and exporting. Topics covered will consist of: logistics and speed to market, product development, production and the financial impact. The panel will include a group of experts in International finance, logistics, importing and exporting, production and retailing.

Hope to see you there!

Jill Mazur is an independent apparel business and technology consultant working with Fashion Business, Incorporated. Email: jill@fashionbizinc.org